I tried to persuade Clive to write this blog entry about my first experience of surfing but he refused, so here goes!
It has been my intention since arriving in Australia to have a go at surfing before my 50th birthday. Time has been flying past and I was on the verge of admitting defeat when an Aussie friend of mine said she'd always wanted to try surfing, would I have a go with her? She was going through a hard time and I didn't like to disappoint her, so felt obliged to say 'yes'. I secretly hoped she'd forget, or at least put off booking our lesson until next summer, but just several hours later a message popped up on my phone: 'It's booked!'
The morning of our lesson dawned grey and blustery with squally showers but not too cold. Neither of us felt brave enough to pull out, so we drove down to Manly and signed the disclaimer, leaving a gap next to 'Age' - what business was it of theirs, surely they could tell we weren't spring chickens?
Our group consisted of me and Marjolein, a man with his 2 daughters of around 10 and 12, a single guy of about 25 and a young couple. Our coaches were Mike and Brad, strapping surfers who were more interested in the waves than us, but hey ho!
The hard work started immediately, dragging our heavy, awkward beginner boards the 1/2 kilometer or so up the beach away from the rip. Mike gave us some instruction on the sand. It all seemed quite easy - just paddle out from the shore into waist-deep water, point the board towards the beach, climb onto it in the right place, wait for a wave to hit the back of the board, do a press-up into standing position and ride the board to the shore. What could be hard about that?
We had recovered our breath from the drag up the each and made our way into the surf. It was not a perfect day - there was an onshore breeze but the tide was on its way out, so the waves were all over the place. That coupled with the intermittent rain at least meant that there were very few voyeurs to entertain, but we were all so busy concentrating and trying to catch a wave we really wouldn't have noticed if the whole of Sydney was watching us!
I was already tired from the walk up the beach, but my enthusiasm buoyed my flagging energy levels and I pushed my board before me into the water. I watched the waves. There seemed to be a suitable one approaching - quick, turn the board around, climb on, position toes at end and hands below shoulders ready to launch body into standing position. So far, so good. Stare fixedly at the beach. Is that the wave hitting me? Yes, go! Bit wobbly, board suddenly picks up speed, whoops, going sideways, losing control, get dumped spectacularly. Try to remember which way is up and where board is. Oh yes, attached to my ankle by leash. Board is now sailing happily towards the beach dragging me with it!
I look around me to see everyone else having similar experiences. Time to try again. The second time, my board feels more cumbersome and doesn't want to turn very easily. I look for a suitable wave and turn several down as not being good enough, but in reality I think the only person I was fooling was myself - there were plenty of good waves, I was just in need of a rest!
Can't put it off any longer. Mike approaches and grabs my board, telling me to leap on. I do as instructed and then he spots a massive wave bearing down on us before we have time to turn beachwards. 'Hang on!' he shouts. I do as I'm told, shut my eyes and grip to the board like a leech as it crashes down through the wave. Glad he was holding it!
We turn around (well, Mike turns me around!), a wave approaches and he launches me into it with a push. 'Up, Up!' he shouts and up I jump. I have to shuffle my feet a little further forward to stop the board doing a backward dive, but I'm doing it, I'm surfing! Not for long and not very stylishly, but I did it! The next second I hit the deck, but surface to applause from Mike and feel very proud of myself. I really hadn't expected to manage to stand up at all.
I then had to crack it without Mike's help. By now I was so battered by the strong surf it took all my energy to climb onto the board, let alone push myself into a standing position. Press-ups have never been my forte, and this, coupled with the fact that my toes were white and numb anyway from my Raynauld's, meant that it took every ounce of energy I had to stand on the board. For every 3 failed attempts I had one success, but never for very long. We had a couple of pep talks on the beach, but were actually in the water for about 1 1/4 hours, and despite my white toes and fingers, my body was lovely and warm thanks to a wetsuit.
Time seemed to move very slowly, but at last we were told to leave the water. Phew, relief! I am pleased to report that Marjolein and I may have been the oldest by a long way, but we were no worse than the other beginners, despite my Raynauld's and her dodgy back. We were treated no differently and no-one sniggered behind their hands at us (at least, we don't think so!). We really enjoyed the experience and will definitely try surfing again, but maybe in the summer! It's a sport that demands total concentration, determination, strength and flexibility. I can't say I have all those, but I have a great deal more admiration for anyone who surfs now and promise never to laugh at them again - well, only sometimes!